Here's a little blog I came up with after doing the Philippine Roundabout, most experienced riders already know this and have their own way of doing things so I am sharing this for the benefit of some of the new guys out there, hope it helps them enjoy and keep safe:
Link to blog with photos:
http://tjaderregis.multiply.com/journal/item/24/TJADERS_LONG_RIDE_CHECKLISTText Only Article Below:
I have been riding for over 10 years now and have learned so much about riding techniques, bike maintenance tips, quick repair tricks, but nobody really shared much about how to prepare for long rides. Sure there are articles on the net but I found most of them more on the theoretical as they describe products and services not necessarily available here and most are more geared toward the great outdoor adventure vis-a-vis road touring. I have therefore decided to share my own personal checklist for the long ride that has kept my rides safe and enjoyable. This is a share for the benefit of other riders, if you already have a way that works for you then that’s great to know and sharing it here would be very much appreciated. That said, here goes:
STEP 1: CONDITION YOUR BIKE
"The better condition your bike is in, the less tools you have to bring... less tools means lighter load, and lighter load is more riding comfort."
The easiest way to determine what you have to do to your bike before a long ride is to follow your bike's OWNER's MANUAL where periodic maintenance is described in detail. If you have your bike's Manual - go over the every 2-year maintenance and do the stuff you have not done in the last 6 months.
Determining if you have to change oil and tune up is dependent on when you last did it and how long you plan to travel. However, if you don’t have the owner's manual and just want to play safe, here is what I do:
Change Oil, replace Oil Filters - use Synthetic if your planned ride is more than 3000kms
Check/Clean or Replace: Spark Plugs, AirFilter, Brake Pads, Wheel Bearings, Chain Sprocket Set
Bleed/Replace/Top-up: Brake Fluid, Clutch Fluid, Coolant
Fork Maintenance (Oil & Seals) if you have not done so in the last 2 years
Clean/Check Carburetor
Check/replace lights
Tighten bolts
Lubricate/oil joints
Grease swing arm & other grease points
Check/Replace Tires – use tires appropriate for the road conditions you may encounter.
It is also valuable for you to know your bike’s Full Tank Range so you can plan your fuel stops
NEXT: CONDITION YOURSELF:
The long ride is not about speed, but more about endurance. The mindset coming into a long ride has to be about “reaching your destination safely” rather than “getting there ahead of everyone else”. Travelling 90-110kph will pretty much get you to your desired destination without putting yourself at much risk. But if you have the skill to do 130 and more like my good friends Wilson & Ed, then pls heat the water for me when you get there so we can enjoy a hot cup of coffee together when I arrive, which would probably be well within 5 to 10 mins.
When riding with a group, safety takes precedence over camaraderie. So ride your pace, relax, and simply know your destination so you don’t get lost. Conversely, expect others to do the same, so don’t have a cow when they all leave you behind as they ride their own pace. If you get lost or encounter trouble, stop, text your buddies, and they will eventually reply when they stop and look at their phones. To make this a simpler matter, choose your group and ride with those you are comfortable with. I will have a section on group riding below for whatever its worth.
PROPER GEAR: A BIG PLUS!
This can mean the difference between an enjoyable, comfortable, and safe ride vs. the complete opposite!
Gear That I Have:
GPS Mounted on bike (Garmin GPSMap 60Csx)
KTM LC4 Tankbag by Touratech
Oxford Soft Saddles (from motoworld)
Mesh Jacket with rain liner tucked in the rear pocket (RS TAICHI)
Waterproof/Breathable KTM Technical Enduro Pants (by THOR)
Waterproof Riding Boots (Alpinestars Black Label Waterproof Boots)
All weather gel padded touring gloves (joe rocket)
Arai TX1 Helmet with visor (visor helps to block out the sun and never really bothered me at speeds of up to 170kph
Helmet liner (cheap stretch polyester fabric you can buy at Honda riding academy in Sucat)
Externally strapped on Shin & Knee Guards
Dianese Back protector & Kidney Belt
Under Armor Heat Gear (Long Sleeved)
Padded Bike Shorts
DriFit Shirt
Sports brief & socks
Body pouch for Wallet, Camera, Cellphone, Spare batt for GPS (GPS mounted on bike)
Waterproof backpack (mountain hardware day pack from ROX) – though I plan to eliminate this with the new bike having a top box now. Backpack weight multiplies over time, though the trick is to loosen it so the base touches the seat – it gets in the way when changing positions during quick maneuvers. And when my wife rides pillion, she gets to wear it – not something to wish on your loved ones!
Though you can do without some of the items above, what is important is that you are comfortable, weatherproof, and protected in case of a crash.
SECRET TO UNLIMITED CLOTHES:
Packing for the long ride can be a real bitch for some, especially if they do 1 set of clothes for 1 day of travel. The very simple trick is to invest in technically advanced clothing very much available in specialty shops like ROX and various sports shops and department stores. These are dry fit shirts, quick dry shorts with liner (pitman), anti-bacterial socks (Burlington), etc. With these technically advanced clothing, the only 1 set is to 1 day ratio you need is brief & socks! The rest can be worn 2-3 days without consequences, but only if you have Under Armor & the bike shorts – let me explain:
UnderArmor (UA) is the immediate clothing that touches your upper body, the next shirt after that is a Dry-fit shirt, followed by your riding jacket (with CE armor at the arms and elbows); ask anyone who has ridden with me and they will testify that I sweat profusely! But UnderArmor Heat Gear takes care of managing that sweat while the dry-fit next layer of shirt wicks whatever passes through the under armor. As long as there is a wee bit of wind passing through your body, there really is no sweat. I do drip like a block of ice in a dessert when stopped but all becomes well as soon as we start moving again. Oh and by the way, the long sleeved UA makes putting on the jacket very easy! No inner lining sticking to your sweaty arms! I know this sounds like a paid advertisement for the product but I am telling you I am just that happy with it! 4000kms and 10 days of riding will bring out the truth!
For the lower body, the first layers of clothing that take the sweat are the brief and socks. These are replaced daily. The bike shorts that follow the brief will not usually need to be replaced but are just as easy enough to wash and dry overnight by the A/C or electric fan.
The next secret has to do with planning your ride, integrate a WASH DAY in your ride plan! I find this best every 4th or 5th day of the ride, or where the destination makes it convenient (e.g. services offered in hotel). The only difference between a WASH DAY and a regular riding day is that in a planned WASH day, you will arrive at your destination hotel between 12pm to 2pm, that’s still a possible 300km day if you leave at 5am. Arriving at the destination hotel at this time allows you 1 hour of washing time with 3 to 4 hours of sunlight – or additional airing time if the weather is not cooperating. The only things you really wash are briefs & socks, and those are pretty easy. UA, Dryfit shirts, and bike shorts can be washed at this time as well. If this is done on the 4th & 8th day, you only need to bring 4 sets plus the set you wore on jump off day to last you 12 or more days! You do have to bring a sleeping set of clothes as well where I recommend a dry-fit shirt as well and pitman shorts. These shorts are comfortable to sleep on without underwear so its like you are on boxers, but you can just as easily step out and buy stuff outside your room without dangling your balls outside the side of your loose underwear – unless that’s the desired effect you want to show the locals then by all means wear those loose boxers! Hehe Pitman shorts can also double as swim trunks on the beach or pools, and will dry within hours of washing.
Of course other things to bring like a pouch of your toiletries, a small towel, and slippers is a must as well. Below is my actual clothes packed for my 12 day ride:
5 sets brief & socks
4 Dri-Fit shirts
1 Dri-Fit shirt for sleeping
1 Pitman Short
1 pair slippers
1 pouch toiletries
1 padded bike short (worn)
1 long sleeved UnderArmor (worn)
1 helmet liner (worn)
1 Small Towel
And yes I did have some electronics: 1 Laptop, power cables, AA Battery charger, cell phone & charger, camera & charger, GPS (mounted) LED Flashlight, Benchmade Blade Tool (u need this to slice the tubeless plugs when repairing a hole in your tire)
You may think packing like this is a bit too conservative, especially if you have the panniers, top box, and tank bag – but I have not mentioned that my wife rides pillion and she needs all the other available space for her stuff! So learning to occupy the least space is more of a necessity actually.
TOOLS & SPARES:
Below are some of the stuff I bring for those “just in case” situations.
1 Liter Engine Oil (same as you used); Dot 4 Brake & Hydraulic Fluids Specific to your bike
Motul Foam Tire Inflator; and Patch Kit (for wire wheels)
Tubeless Tire Plug Kit for tubeless tire
Mini Electric Pump or manual bike pump if you feel like doing 300 pumps per tire (stick with the electric)
Your bike’s Tool set (assemble your own if you don’t have the originals)
Plastic Ties, Old Shoelaces (for tying stuff where you may lose bolts along the way)
WD40 or equivalent multi purpose oil, and ChainLube (for more than 1000kms travel)
Tie Down (available in the hardware, useful for RORO crossings)
Duct Tape for whatever… ask McGyver!
Medium Trash liners
8 zip lock sandwich bags for wallet & gadget waterproofing
1 Microfiber Cloth for metal & dirty parts
1 Clean Microfiber Cloth for clear plastic & clean parts
SUGGESTED RIDING SPEEDS (kph):
NLEX/SCTEX/SLEX whatever is safe for you
Provincial straights 90-110
Provincial Twisties 40-80
Passing Through Populated Areas 40-60
PREFERRED GAS:
I prefer Petron XCS due to its 95 Octane Rating and availability on most provincial areas
Caltex does not always have the 95 octane Gold; and Shell does not always have its 95 octane VPower in the provinces – my bike needs 95 octane
GROUP RIDING:
When riding with a group, take some time to watch the 10 min MSF feature on group rides (have it in my VIDEOS section), for some idea. But I don’t advise that you be a tight ass about the “RULES” of group rides as each rider is unique and that it is generally UNSAFE for a rider to be forced to ride outside their own pace and riding style. I am not a firm believer in maintaining the line, In group rides we would conduct an overall ride briefing where the routes are discussed and the destinations and refueling stops are predetermined. This way individual members are expected to be responsible enough to find their way should they get detached from the group. However, a “Spearhead” who would lead the group & a “Sweeper” are still assigned to act their roles for those who do stay in formation. Once or twice a rider would break formation and “play” as long as he/she does this with the awareness of those in formation (by beeping twice and waiting for the guy in front to acknowledge) then all will be fine. The general rule I would recommend here is that, while in formation, respect the formation. If you want to ride your own way, do break formation, and do your thing away from everyone else who decided to follow formation. If you do break formation and do your own thing, stay safe and be sure to regroup on the next stop.
There were instances that we would have a long ride with 50 riders. The trick we did here was to break up into sub groups with spearheads and sweepers in each sub group. Fuel, meal, and comfort stops are done on the sub group level. The main group gets together only at the destination for the day. A back up vehicle & crew would be deemed necessary in this scale.
You can also divide the tools and equipment among group mates. During the planning stage, you could delegate who brings the tire irons, electric pump, patch kit, spare levers, etc. This way even without a back up vehicle, at least someone in the group would have a tool or part that could save a ride without overly burdening the individual riders. This sharing can extend to tents, off lotion, sun block, but maybe not to the extent of toothbrushes.
Once in a blue moon a group would be lucky enough to have a support crew and vehicle (such as the OASR in Davao). In this instance, the “sweeper” does not have to stay behind the line, his role can change to guiding riders to make the correct turns, and communicating concerns up and down the line to the spearhead (emergency stop, comfort break, etc.)
I have a graphic of basic signs on this link: some groups may have their own versions, make sure to align this with the group before the ride. One of our American group mates once chased me and started patting his head, I thought this meant comfort stop and that he already peed his pants! But after a bit of bewilderment I figured he meant that he was on reserve and needed to gas up. We usually just point to the tank
There’s a lot more to be said about riding with groups but the most important I would say is “Ride with those you are comfortable with, and whose riding style is very similar to yours” Forcing yourself to “belong” to a group which is above or below your riding pace and style could be very risky. Again safety should prevail over your ego.
OTHER GENERAL TIPS:
I don’t generally bring water since I would have access to it along the way, maybe a small bottle in the tank bag once I a while, but I do load up on liquids during fuel & meal stop, less weight more comfort.
On RORO Tie Downs: When tying down your bike, choose a wall with a rail or loop where you can fasten the rope. Place your bike with the bike stand toward the wall, then tie a rope from the opposite side of the stand latching on somewhere on the frame (usually i tie from passenger foot peg base where it attaches to the frame) where the purpose of this is to put enough force on the rope to keep pressure on the bike stand and prevent the bike from leaning outside of its side-stand lean.
On RORO Crossings: Roro schedules are indicators but not always followed. Always keep at least 3 copies of your OR/CR. 1 on your person; 1 on the bike (in ziplock under the seat); and 1 easy access on tank bag or belt/pouch bag. They do not need to keep a copy of your OR/CR so you can re-use this 1 for ALL RORO document processing. The procedures may differ in steps based on which port you are in but the basic number of processes remain the same: 1 Secure a RORO ticket from the Shipping company; 2 Have the Coast Guard record your document; 3 Pay the Arrastre (usually 65 pesos for MC), Terminal Fee, and other port fees they may have. Take note that some RORO companies charge differently for the passenger and the vehicle. For some crossings, you may want to place the rain-covers on your tank bag, or cover the instrument panel from sea-spray. Do be careful and mindful of the metal floor of the boat and any oil drops from other vehicles as these would be very slippery!
Overall, you will know what works for you as you ride, so keep on riding!
Tjader's Long (Road) Ride Checklist
